Block paving is the most common new driveway in the West Midlands, and for good reason. It carries cars without cracking, a damaged block can be lifted and replaced, and it suits everything from a Victorian terrace to a new-build estate. It is also the surface where the hidden work matters most. The blocks you see are 50–80mm thick; the layers under them do the real work.
Tell us the size of the area and what is there now, and you get an indicative price range straight away. We pass your enquiry to one local specialist, who confirms a fixed price.
What it costs
Block paving on a new base costs £90–£140 per m², supplied and laid with the waste taken away. Digging out the old surface and fitting edgings are added on top.
| Job | Indicative price |
|---|---|
| Block paving, per m² | £90–£140 |
| Digging out a lawn, per m² | £10–£18 |
| Digging out old tarmac or block, per m² | £15–£25 |
| Digging out concrete, per m² | £20–£35 |
| Edgings and kerbs, per metre | £25–£45 |
| Two-car drive on grass (about 30m²) | £3,550–£5,730 |
| Same drive at the front, with a soakaway | up to about £6,930 |
The smallest block paving job our estimator will price starts at about £1,890. The driveway cost per m² guide has more worked examples, and block paving vs resin compares the two side by side.
What the job involves
- Setting out. Levels and falls are marked so water runs away from the house, usually at about 1 in 60 to 1 in 80, and at least 150mm below the damp-proof course where the drive meets the wall.
- Digging out. The old surface and soil are removed to a depth that allows for the sub-base, bedding and blocks, typically 200–250mm for a car drive. Soft spots in clay are dug out further.
- Sub-base. Crushed stone (usually Type 1) is laid in layers and compacted with a plate or roller. This is the layer that stops ruts and sinking.
- Edge restraint. Kerbs or edging blocks are set on and backed with concrete. Without a firm edge the blocks slowly spread and the joints open up.
- Bedding and laying. A screeded bed of sharp sand, then the blocks, cut to fit around manholes and edges.
- Jointing and compacting. Kiln-dried sand is brushed into the joints and the surface is compacted, then topped up.
A typical two-car drive takes three to five days, weather permitting.
Standard or permeable block
Standard block paving is laid on sand and jointed with fine sand, and most rain runs off it. In a front garden over 5m², that water has to go to a lawn, border, channel drain or soakaway on your land, or you need planning permission. Our 5m² rule guide explains why.
Permeable block paving uses blocks with wider joints filled with fine grit, laid on an open-graded stone base that holds water and lets it soak away. It meets the front-garden rule on its own but costs more for the base and is less suited to heavy clay without a drainage outlet. The specialist will tell you which suits your ground. Where a standard drive needs extra drainage, see drainage and soakaways.
Patterns and colours
- Herringbone at 45° or 90° is the strongest pattern for cars, because the blocks lock together and resist turning tyres.
- Stretcher bond (brick pattern) is simpler and suits paths and narrow drives, but should be laid across the direction of travel.
- Basketweave looks traditional and works for patios, less well for drives.
- Borders in a contrasting colour frame the drive and hide cuts at the edges.
Tumbled or multi-colour blocks hide oil marks and wear better visually than a single bright colour. Charcoal and brindle are the most common choices locally.
What affects the price
- Area. The biggest factor. Drives over 100m² are priced after a free visit.
- What is there now. Lifting concrete costs more than lifting turf.
- Edgings. A long, narrow drive has more edge per square metre than a square one.
- Access. No room for a small digger adds about 20%; barrowing everything through the house or over 50m adds about 15%, and a drive only reachable through the house always needs a visit.
- Levels and drainage. A sloping drive, steps up to the front door or a front garden needing a soakaway all add cost.
- Dropped kerb. If you need one, it is a separate council process. See dropped kerbs.
Local specialists cover Sutton Coldfield, North Birmingham, Solihull, South Birmingham, Edgbaston and Harborne, Lichfield and Tamworth, Walsall, Wolverhampton, Dudley and Stourbridge and Coventry.
What to photograph for a quote
Good photos mean a closer price, and a shorter visit to measure up. How to measure.
- The whole fence line or area, end to end, standing back as far as you can
- From above if you can: an upstairs window shows the size and levels best
- The way in from the road: the drive, side gate, steps and where a lorry could park
Questions about block paving driveways
How long does block paving last?
Laid on a proper compacted sub-base with a firm edge restraint, a block paved drive commonly lasts 20 years or more. Individual blocks can be lifted and relaid if a drain needs work or a patch sinks.
Why do some block drives sink or spread?
Almost always because the sub-base was too thin or not compacted, or the edges were not set in concrete. Our guide to why cheap driveways fail explains what to ask a firm before you agree a price.
Will weeds grow through block paving?
Some growth in the joints is normal over time, mostly from seeds landing on top. Keeping the joints full of sand helps. Driveway cleaning with re-sanding and sealing slows it down.
Can block paving be laid over my old concrete drive?
Sometimes, if the concrete is sound, well drained and the new levels still sit below the damp-proof course. More often it is broken out. The specialist will judge from photos or a visit.
Is block paving more expensive than resin?
On a new base, block paving is usually a little more per m². Over a sound existing drive, resin is cheaper because the base can stay. See the block paving vs resin vs tarmac guide.